Sam Suchoff got into the ham business because of hot dogs. A whole hog advocate, he’d been making hot dogs for his restaurant in Chapel Hill using pork from a coop of small family farms. He had a surplus of legs, and that led to ham. This classic country ham is cured in salt and sugar, dry-cured, and aged for up to 22 months. Country ham isn’t smoked, and a tangy, tasty funk defines the best hams.